The wig is the symbol of the era of Baroque and Rococo.
Nonetheless, the current idea of the fashion accessories to refer more to the realm of legends.
An oft-repeated assertion
Louis XIV went out of their hair, what the invention of Allonge a result.
Very intelligent argument - show even more striking that one is wearing a wig can not really pass.
So forget about the crap you get to go soon in the school and turn to the historical facts.
The wig itself there since ancient times, even then would sign to a status symbol, or special.
pharaohs wore wigs and artificial beards as a sign of their dignity.
Even in ancient Rome there was already wigs in order to have more youthful look. In the Renaissance it was
already elaborate hairpieces for women and elaborate wigs,
think of Elizabeth I of England.
The men wore short hair, but usually.
Under Louis XIII, there was a new fashion trend.
In contrast to the English Hofmode, or the "Tudor Mode" developed here a very own Fashion style. Instead of collars preferred to set the line - and lace collar, instead of short hair, it was now fashionable for men to wear long hair or curls.
The clothes were provided with plenty of lace, ribbons and bows.
They were not black like in the German lands and Spain, but highly colored, of course, at the court of precious materials.
The new hair fashion, however, many men with a problem. The most
had just quite thin hair and could not join this fashion without tools.
Louis XIII suffered particularly under his thinning hair and he let himself make a wig. This wig was
But even so artfully done that you did not see that this was a wig.
met in the wig really the job of a hair replacement.
Under Louis XIV was the fashion in clothes more expensive and you can actually speak of a kind of mannerism, because everything was extremely over-subscribed. The 'Rhinegrave Mode' is the best example.
The whole thing was often interpreted as fashion dictates. For with the elaborate fashion of the court it was possible for the needle to deflect aggressive with pure superficiality of politics.
A suit of this kind was extremely expensive to make, infinitely precious, because every available Body has been embroidered - even the socks.
was also used more expensive needle to excess. This should
long hair or just the new wigs are worn.
The wigs were designed so opulent that it was immediately obvious that it was not to their own hair. The
Allonge wig, as in the 19 Century was called, costs an enormous amount of money, especially if it was exclusively made of blond hair. In the 17th
Century they were called simply wig [or queen Peruque]
These first wigs had no head, not this "hump" [correct: Fontager a deux points], but voluminous and longer than the later models.
The curls or strands of hair fell loosely over her shoulders, WHILE later Allonge and especially the Quarree - Wigs on "lace" and thus zurickgriffen three large "flap" formed: the two front and rear.
~. ~. ~
Another point of belongs to the realm of legends:
Most wigs were not white or gray, but kept in all sorts of natural colors. For it was indeed real hair.
in the late 17th Century, people increasingly began to powder the wigs, which made them appear white or gray.
The real white wigs usually wore less wealthy people, because they were made of substitute materials, such as cattle hair, hemp or wool.
real hair was in these quantities very costly, especially if you wanted to have the rare blond hair.
It tells of a prince, that he allowed himself to make a blonde Allonge and then set up for a cabinet. There he exhibited them - wear it she did not, for he had paid a few million.
Louis XIV also had a whole cabinet where he kept his wigs.
This cabinet was like the whole "inner house" at Versailles, designed very beautifully. Under Louis XV was
this apartment except the two Anteroom and the Chambre du parade reformed completely. The former wig cabinet is now a part of the Salle du Conseil, which connects directly to the king's bedroom.
Louis XIV defended themselves until the 1660s against this fashion, since he himself had long blonde hair, after all he was wearing the wig with fashion.
Who invented the wig fashion is ultimately unknown, Louis XIV, it was demonstrably not.
is more remarkable is that the initial aversion, a real cult was forced by the king because the king laid special emphasis on his wigs, which just became the father of the precious-appointed Cabinet (unfortunately only descriptions and get sketches of decorations).
contributed in no time all the men, almost all professions, except the poor farmers, the new wigs. About 1685 came yet another such extravagance - the Fontager.
now generally known only for the frame to tip the ladies wore on his head and was taken by Mademoiselle de Fontager fashionable.
But the towering wigs were called Fontager, best known here are the two "humps" [Fontager a deux points] are so visible on so many pictures of the time.
It also gave distinctions in the main forms of the wig. The common
Allonge was characterized by an almost wild curls. There were various models, all variations or Colours were possible. Length and abundance were selected according to the purse.
For the military was already wigs that welled no longer on the shoulders, but were already summarized in a braid.
Then there was the strict 'Quarree wig', this wig can be seen frequently on state portraits after 1700. It is powdered white or gray, has no "Untamed" hair but looks almost stiff.
The last area of this wig form part of judges in the English-speaking Space.
In the later wigs of the 1680s is often seen in paintings that only one of the "hair cloth" worn over the shoulder, often, the second thrown behind the back - there was even wigs that require only a hair lobes possessed.
From 1700 it was the third major form of Couper in fashion. The so-called "nodes wig"
The name stems from the fact that the hair-ends, which were higher than the shoulders, no longer were attracted, but smooth. These hair tresses were then knotted.
Famous examples of these wigs can be found on the portraits of Handel and Vivaldi.
came From 1700, the so-called "Stutz wig" increasingly Originally fashionable
it was a simple wig, carrying mainly bourgeois, so these wigs often simply 'citizens wig' called - most famous example is the house man Portrait of Johann Sebastian Bach.
These models were also produced in all colors.
The wigs of the nobility were made almost entirely of real hair, but even then it was looking for cheaper substitutes, and so there is even a wig made of glass fiber obtained if this model was taken, or was made as a mere showpiece, is not sure.
For the smaller budget were wigs, as mentioned already, of horse or buffalo hair, sometimes even made from hemp.
These wigs were also stained, so it was not immediately obvious that you can afford an expensive human hair wig could not.
around 1700 was drawing the fashion of the big wigs but its very end.
From the military has taken over the hair bag. The queen was
military wear it of course, been customary wig, as an officer and a soldier, at least long hair in curls which then was inserted.
WHILE the fight were, however, the long loose hair more of a hindrance, so they simply band together in the neck, or put them immediately into a kind of bag - it was also prevents the pigtail disturbed.
The hair bags (Bourse) was invented.
were only in the later decades these curls collections on two, three or often reduced a couple curls.
On many farms, however, was the hair-bag disallowed because he was just too much to be related to combat and war related.
The wig was also no more of the accessory daily use, it was more usual to style their own hair according to powder and then - especially in the second half of the 18th Century.
The wig was worn only at official occasions, even at the court, it has been held.
WHILE the wig from the front was designed formal and uniform, it was all the more variations in the braid.
usual it was the neck, or tie the braids with large bows of velvet, silk or taffeta.
The shape of the strings was almost the volume of a Allonge - accept revivals, or quite subtle and short. Some men carried up to four braids.
The Bourse was very fashionable, the loose ends of the slip to take forward and to put them in the shirt or to tie a loop (solitaire)
the specimen was worn, however, also like no hair bag.
In France it was also very smart when you had long hair and a man's own view of their own under the braid was also Perückenzopf.
renounced the military fashion of the time also does not cover wigs. However, there were
wigs worn only on festive occasions.
was particularly characteristic of long braids wrapped the Prussian army. was
the end of the century different trends in hair fashion of the men. wigs without any hair, it pointed out that this mode slowly coming to an end, or the general surrendered.
In France and England came to particular extravagance.
in England were the wigs again a Fontager had, so that the men's wigs reached a height of almost 40 cm.
in France, the wigs in the wide, with particularly large side curls.
way it can be assumed that older men have quite the fashion of their youth remained faithful - was then and this should be the same today and is also found in various caricatures of the time.
disappeared in the women's fashion a wig or hair pieces to wear from 1720th While the clothes were
always sweeping, the hairstyles in return but always discreet. Loosen tight curls, decorated with delicate ribbons or flowers were the norm.
In most cases, but all the ladies wore a simple cover.
only at official occasions or when the court was based on the elaborate curls.
changed in the last third of the century the fashion of the ladies hair completely.
were now built with bases and real hair hairpieces architectures.
This most extravagant fashion seems to have sprung up in Paris by the hairdresser Leonard.
Contemporary cartoons show all model sailing ship, bird cages and servants associated with the columns behind the ladies. Between these cartoons, fashion drawings and paintings of this period of time, however, are worlds apart.
Therefore, an objective observation almost impossible.
The French Revolution ended the wig fashion more or less.
Never before was so much in the fashion of the beginning of a new era.
While people in the old regime were arrested, still wearing wig and Habit, the men preferred the "new age" dress coat with high collar, short hair and sometimes even cheeks, beards and long pants. At the court it was also still common even well into the 19th bear century breeches - trousers were long considered obscene.
Napoleon, after his appointment as first consul, even the obligation to please the wig for men recite to reintroduce, but he refused, laughing.
One of the last examples of this is found in Kassel. When Jerome was driven
(King Lustig), the Elector Wilhelm I came back from exile (1813) and one of his first acts was to reintroduce the wig for court and the military.
took care of the wigs, the most special hairdressers. They washed the wigs, dressing them and treated them with special powders and pomades. The swarming
the baroque wigs ie before pests are abundant unrealistic and depends much more on the personal hygiene of the wearer.
course there were even contemporary cartoons and caricatures of such things as "The opening of a wig"
vermin at that time was something completely natural, since it also much more closely with animals lived it himself was aware of this and took the pests easily with humor out.
Although the hygiene of the 17th and 18 Century is not comparable to our sterile exaggerations, so it is a misconception that we do not Value put on these things.
personal care was then taken very seriously, but seen more natural than today.
Sources:
curls and Herschermacht [Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum - Brunswick]
Louis XIV - Philippe Erlanger [Bechtermünz Publisher]
Louis XIV - Olivier Bernier [Albatros Verlag]
The staging of the Sun King [History Fischer Verlag]
eyewitness reports from the court of Louis XIV [Office du Livre - Fribourg]
The great dynasties [Karl Müller Verlag Erlangen]
palaces - palaces - residences [Georg Westermann Verlag]
Architecture - Baroque [Koenemann]
Karl Heinz Taubert - courtly dances [Schott]
Versailles - Jean Marie de Pérouse de Montclos [Koenemann Verlag]
